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Ecuador
Chocolate Factory: Gianduja--Jeff Stern's Hidden Place in
Ecuador
By Linda McFarlin
Ecuador Chocolate Factory: One of those hidden places in Ecuador
that is definitely worth the
effort to locate is Gianduja Chocolatier, Jeff Stern’s Ecuador
chocolate factory in Quito. Our search was made easier with
Jeff’s precise directions. We
found Gianduja’s tiny sign
next to a nondescript black metal gate on what seemed like
a busy commercial street.

Turning left after walking down a long, inviting garden path, we
entered a sparkling clean chocolate factory and were immediately faced
with shelves displaying all kinds of
dark and delicious temptations.
It was hard to restrain my instant hand-to-mouth impulses, being so
close within touch and taste of Jeff’s glistening specimens of
chocolaty perfection.
Chocolate Heaven
There were handmade truffles, bonbons, macadamia brittle, shiny gold
hearts, even heart-shaped chocolate boxes full of chocolates.
Heaven!!
Who in his right mind could resist sneaking a nibble? I was
giving the naughty thought serious consideration. But before I could grab a bite. .
. or ten, Jeff wisely whisked us off to show us
the inner workings of his chocolateria, leaving me unsatisfied but
curious.

The main machine Jeff operates processes 30 kilos of Ecuador chocolate
to keep it warm and the machine runs constantly.
He uses 50% sugar/ 50% chocolate most of the time and the sugar is
fondant or invert sugar, not pure white sugar. He also makes
a 70% chocolate, which foreigners love, but the locals don’t like
the
darker, more bitter, chocolate.
Ecuador Chocolate with a Temper
Jeff – “You have to temper chocolate to make it
“shine and snap,” or it
won’t set up properly. To temper, I first heat the
chocolate
to 50 degrees C., then lower the temperature to 30 degrees C. and add a
piece of tempered chocolate.
Ecuador Chocolate hearts
“The tempered chocolate must have no bloom, but needs the right
crystals to “infect” the rest of the chocolate. I
keep it
moving to spread the tempering throughout the chocolate, a process
which takes one-half hour.” (“Bloom” is the
whitish covering
that can appear on the surface of chocolate that has not been property
tempered.)
We watched as
Jeff filled a sheet of molds under the warm chocolate stream, then
vibrated it and shook out the excess. After the
chocolate is firm, he adds the fillings and tops the mold with
additional chocolate.

His unique chocolate pieces are decorated with textured sheets
hand-applied to the tops or customized with colored cocoa butter
designs.
He uses edible organic cocoa butter or a colored spray to color the
chocolates.
Jeff masterminds the entire process, with only
one woman to assist him.
Much of the Ecuador chocolate that Jeff uses in his enchanting
creations comes from a 600-hectare farm in Ecuador, owned by a Swiss
man who mainly exports his raw beans for 70% chocolate.
Jeff’s chocolate is not organic, but it is 100% Ecuadorian
chocolate,
with pure cocoa butter. While there is some organic chocolate
in Ecuador, it is mostly exported.
Molded Masterpieces
Made by Hand
Although he, too, exports the majority of his confections, Jeff also
has a local Ecuadorian market, mostly molded pieces sold to
restaurants, caterers, weddings, corporations or as gifts at Christmas
and holidays.
He can hand-make 5000 pieces a week in sheets
or 2000 pieces molded, at 12 grams each.
Jeff’s chocolate sells retail in the U.S. for $70-100 per lb, or
$3 per
piece, under the labels of several exclusive chocolatiers.
Wholesale, he sells it for $25-30 per lb.

Noticing that we were all salivating in anticipation, Jeff generously
let us pick a sweet morsel to sample. In the true spirit of
cooperation and with the desire to taste as many flavors as we could,
in between moans of pleasure, we all nibbled bites of each
other’s
chocolates.
El Mexicano—Bonbon
with a Bite
My favorites were the raspberry-filled chocolates and the ones with
coffee centers. There was also a solid white chocolate cup
beautifully decorated with a multicolored striped top. I had
hoped our box of chocolates would contain an “El Mexicano,”
a bonbon
flavored with cinnamon (canella) and chipotle chili.
But
alas, there wasn’t one, so it is on my list when I drop by the
factory
again.
Gary and I bought a gold box with one-half pound but it barely survived
the 2-hour trip back to Cotacachi. Even
though Jeff says that his
Ecuador chocolate has a one-year shelf life, by the next day, only the
empty box was left to remind us of our visit to his
Ecuador chocolate
factory.
Jeff is a graduate of L’Academie de Cuisine in the U.S. but is
mostly
self-taught. He studied and worked with several major
chocolatiers in Washington, D.C. before opening his own factory in
Quito.

He and his family live in Cumbaya, a 10-mile drive from Quito, but from
his factory windows, we could see Jeff’s wife of 11 years, Maria,
playing with their two children, ages 2 and 4.
The house Maria grew up in is conveniently located right behind the
chocolate factory, complete with lawn and loving grandparents, so Jeff
has the best of both worlds, enjoying his work but seldom far from his
family.
Jeff is exploring the possibility of making Ecuador chocolates with
honey in them for the Ecuador Honey Company, which produces 6 kinds of
honey, including exotics like
radish flower honey and avocado honey.
Yummm. . . I can’t wait!
Gianduja is Italian,
Not Spanish. . .Until Now
The word “gianduja” means a type of chocolate candy first
developed by
Pierre Paul Caffarel or a chocolate preparation made with approximately
50% hazelnut or almond paste, blended with cocoa and
sugar.
In 1826 Caffarel bought a new industrial machine invented by an Italian
named Bozelli. Adapting the machine to make the world’s
first
large quantities of solid chocolate and later, in 1856, the hazelnut
and chocolate candy he named Gianduja, all chocoholics are forever
indebted to him.
For further information, go to:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gianduja

While not as
weird as Willie Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, Gianduja
Chocolatier is every bit as much fun to visit and definitely
delicious. Jeff is helping put Ecuador chocolate
on the
map.
Contact info
for Jeff:
info@giandujachocolate.com
www.giandujachocolate.com
Address:
Av. 10 de Agosto N39-115 y Diguja (near La Y)
Quito, Ecuador
Phone: (593) 2 245 4502
See Jeff’s Ecuador chocolate-making video:
http://www.youtube.com/
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