Cotacachi, Ecuador, somehow managed to remain under the radar despite my travels from Vilcabamba and Loja in the south of the country to Ibarra and Otavalo in the north and back again.  The vibrant green valley between two volcanic peaks that shelter this area can be viewed briefly from the Pan-American Highway as one journeys past on the way from Quito and Otavalo north to Ibarra.  But since buses rush past the right-hand-turnoff to Cotacachi, it's easy to miss one of Ecuador's most idyllic areas.

Cotacachi is a meld of “edificios” with red and brown tiled roofs and multi-colored walls. There is an imposing cathedral topped by a bright-colored statue of Jesus.  Turning off the PanAm, the town is a brief three-kilometer ride that winds its way past verdant pastures, dramatic ravines and a leisurely flowing Ambi River where cows graze, guarded by an assortment of children and dogs.

The historical and cultural beginnings of this town are hidden deep in the past.  One hears tales whispered proudly of how the people this far north managed to resist the Inca conquest until the 16th century.  Legend has it that the Incas were unable to have much influence here and finally gave up after only a 20-year subjugation of the north. 

Like its namesake, the female volcano Cotacachi that remains mostly shrouded behind mist and cloud, the town of Cotacachi is coming out of hiding as well.

Village life is changing in many ways. Under the guidance of Auki Tituana, a very progressive mayor, the town has cleaned up its act, literally, and now boasts of some of the cleanest streets in Ecuador. 

UNESCO built a gleaming white-tiled market where vendors display an astonishing array of fresh produce.  Meat and chicken now sit in closed refrigerated compartments rather than remaining out in the open, drawing flies.  This newfound focus on cleanliness has seemingly attracted more businesses centered on healing and wellness. 

A physical and mental rehabilitation clinic in town heals using various kinds of electronic equipment, including laser acupressure.  The clinic has different healing modalities such as laser and electromagnet.  The price is only a few dollars per session.  Occasionally, Cuban doctors come for months at a time to practice energy medicine.  This facility, formerly known as Sol de Vida, is now known as Cruz Andina.  The center is housed in a building on Diez de Agosto just passed the produce market.

Click here to read about the former site, Sol de Vida, which closed for a while but is now open again and also doing healing energy work. 

A world-class five-star Relais & Chateaux spa and retreat, La Mirage, beckons those in need of R and R to its luxurious massage rooms, indoor swimming pool, gardens, gourmet restaurant and well-appointed accommodations. 

Many people are coming to the area to partake of the excellent, low-cost dental care in nearby Ibarra.  There are a number of hotels in Cotacachi that range from inexpensive hostels to luxury hotels.  Click here to read about Cotacachi hotels.

Jehovah Witnesses have a small community on the outskirts of town.  Many others come to administer to body and soul with a variety of religious, spiritual and physical offerings.  Several years ago, Transcendental Meditation’s Maharishi Mahesh Yogi sent trainers to teach local people the ancient art of Ayurvedic massage.

Jambi Mascaric is an indigenous healthcare program founded in 1996, which trains health volunteers and midwives.  It is reviving and showcasing the use of traditional native medicine and establishing health care centers and birthing houses in many of the surrounding smaller villages.

Click here to read about how the participatory democracy program is invigorating grassroots health care.
   

While many are being replaced by new concrete buildings, there are still a number of quaint old colonial structures tucked in among the 3- and 4-story shops and residences that make up the biggest part of the village.  A mainstay of Ecuador real estate, these lovely colonials hint of an old-world past steeped in rustic elegance.  Five colonial buildings are designated as historic buildings, but have received little in the way of funds for renovation and upkeep. 

Those old colonials that are still around are in various states of disrepair, sometimes requiring total renovation.  The front of one such structure was beautifully restored by its Ecuadorian owners.  The gutted interior was transformed into a 5,000 square foot adobe home complete with lawn, indoor swimming pool and gardens.

Click here to see if there are any colonial buildings currently for sale.

Currently there are numerous and varied residential Ecuador real estate developments underway, ranging from townhouses and adobe casitas to single-family homes in a wide range of prices.   

Several such Ecuador real estate developments are attracting the interest of not only baby boomers but also an affluent younger set building larger homes in the 2,500 to 3,000 square foot range.  

One of the most well-known architects in Ecuador, Patricio Falconi, designed and is supervising the construction of single-family homes in El Encanto.  These remarkable homes come with a ten-year guarantee.

Also popular are the condominiums built by Jorge Quilumbaqui, an indigenous builder with a penchant for lush gardens.  His first building, Primavera I, sold out quickly, primarily to North Americans.  Four more condo buildings comprise Primavera II, with even more garden space and established trees.  Primavera II is also sold out, but resales are sometimes available.

Click here to see photos and detail of this unique development.

Click here to check for Primavera I and II condo resales.

Homes are of various types and materials.  One community, San Miguel, is entirely filled with similar white adobe or brick houses. The first 'gringo' development in town, the lots are all sold and owners are building their homes.

Barro Viejo, (old mud in Spanish) an architectural firm near Quito, has built several amazing pastel-colored adobes of rammed earth, including the beautiful Casa Sol hostel in nearby Peguche.  These buildings charm the eye and delight the heart with their exacting custom features and inviting interiors.

See more examples of local real estate.

With the wide-open spaces and gently rolling hills that surround the village, there is ample room for home sites large and small.  Cobblestone roads lead out of town in several directions.  

Indigenous barrios are tucked away here and there, filling the air with the laughter of children and the music of frequent fiestas.  For those wishing to recapture a simpler and quieter lifestyle, Cotacachi may well be the place.

Several large haciendas, picturesque dairies, hosterias and numerous farms dot the landscape.  Many of the fields are still worked by hand.  Occasionally oxen can be seen pulling a wooden plow. It’s easy to imagine stepping back in time in such a setting or turning back the clock hundreds of years.

Locals report that land prices have risen markedly in the last decade, yet they are still low compared to other Latin American countries and even other nearby towns like Otavalo and Ibarra.   

Ecuador real estate remains a bargain in many areas and this is one such area where it is still possible to live like a Don on his hacienda.

Cotacachi is also the name of the canton (like counties in the U.S.).  It is one of the largest canton’s in Ecuador and covers the urban area of the city itself, the mountain areas where many of the indigenous live, and the Intag, a remote semi-tropical region. 

Population
Approximately 8,000.

Current Buyers
Baby boomers, investors, health practitioners, second home and vacation homebuyers, artists, green buyers.

Location
The town is a 2 to 2 1/2 hour ride from Quito, about 65 kilometers north.  The Pan-American Highway takes you within about 3 kilometers of Cotacachi, where a left turn at the Pan-Am stoplight will bring you to the town square.

Attractions 
Known for its leather goods—coats, jackets, purses, shoes and specialty items—picturesque “Leather Street” is increasingly becoming more elegant as prosperous shopkeepers vie for the attentions of affluent clientele. 

The town square is charming, with several colonial buildings, a well-manicured park with flowering trees and inviting park benches. 

A short distance, overlooking the town, is the recently dedicated site of the Temple of the Sun, a UNESCO cultural heritage project slated to be completed by 2012. This educational center has been planned as a place to teach ancient traditions and techniques, but right now those plans are on hold. 

Twelve years ago, the village's new mayor at the time, Auki Tituana, implemented a program called participatory democracy.  This exciting new program has given an incredible boost to the people of this canton. 

Each year, more than 1,000 representatives of various community organizations meet to plan the following year’s goals.   Once the goals are set, various committees are formed to insure that the goals are met.  The resources of the canton government are then applied toward making these goals a reality. 

At last count, 130 of Ecuador’s 215 cantons have implemented some elements of Cotacachi’s program.  Click here to read more about the participatory democracy program.

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