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COTACACHI: A PASTORAL ECUADOR VILLAGE IS ENTICING FOREIGNERS FROM MANY SHORESCotacachi, Ecuador, somehow managed to remain under the radar despite my travels from Vilcabamba and Loja in the south to Ibarra and Otavalo in the north and back again. The vibrant green valley between two volcanic peaks that shelter this town can be viewed briefly from the Pan-American Highway as one journeys past on the way from Quito and Otavalo north to Ibarra. But since buses rush past the right-hand-turnoff to Cotacachi, it's easy to miss one of Ecuador's most idyllic areas.  Cotacachi is a meld of “edificios” with red and brown tiled roofs and multi-colored walls, with an imposing cathedral topped by a bright-colored statue of Jesus. Turning right off the PanAm, the town is a brief three-kilometer ride that winds its way past verdant pastures, dramatic ravines and a leisurely flowing stream where cows graze, watched by an assortment of children and dogs. The history and cultural beginnings of this town are hidden deep in the past. One hears tales whispered proudly of how the people this far north managed to resist the Incan conquest until the 16th century. Legend has it that the Incas were unable to have much influence here and finally gave up after only a 20-year subjugation of the north. Like its namesake, the female volcano Cotacachi that remains mostly shrouded behind mist and cloud, the town of Cotacachi is coming out of hiding as well. FROM SLEEPY PUEBLO TO EMERGING
HEALTH CENTER
Life in Cotacachi is changing in many ways. Under the guidance of a very progressive mayor, the town has cleaned up its act, literally, and now boasts of some of the cleanest streets in Ecuador.  A physical and mental rehabilitation clinic in Cotacachi heals using various kinds of electronic equipment, including laser acupressure. The clinic has five or six different healing modalities. The price is $2 per session. Occasionally, Cuban doctors come for months at a time to practice energy medicine. This facility, called Sol de Vida, is one of the central elements of the Cotacachi participatory democracy health care goals. A world-class five-star Relais & Chateaux spa and retreat, La Mirage, beckons those in need of R and R to its luxurious massage rooms, indoor swimming pool, gardens, gourmet restaurant and well-appointed accommodations. Many people are coming to the area to partake of the excellent, low-cost dental care in nearby Ibarra. There are a number of hotels in Cotacachi that range from inexpensive hostels to luxury hotels. Click here to read about Cotacachi Hotels. Jehovah’s Witnesses have a small community on the outskirts of town. Many others come to administer to body and soul with a variety of religious, spiritual and physical offerings. Several years ago, Transcendental Meditation’s Maharishi Mahesh Yogi sent trainers to teach local people the ancient art of Ayurvedic massage. Jambi Mascaric is an indigenous healthcare program founded in 1996, which trains health volunteers and midwives. It is reviving and showcasing the use of traditional native medicine and establishing health care centers and birthing houses in many of the surrounding smaller villages. Click here to read about how the participatory democracy program is invigorating grassroots health care. The Charm
of Old-World Colonials Still Beckons
While many are being replaced by new concrete buildings, there are still a number of quaint old colonial structures tucked in among the 3 and 4 story shops and residences that make up Cotacachi proper. A mainstay of Ecuador real estate, these lovely colonials hint of an old-world past steeped in rustic elegance. Five colonial buildings are designated as historic buildings in Cotacachi, but have received little in the way of funds for renovation and upkeep.  New Developments are Springing Up
As Newcomers Continue to Arrive Currently there are numerous and varied residential Ecuador real estate developments underway, ranging from 1000 square foot adobe villas on one-third acre in a gated community for $65,000 to a large development a short distance from town where acre lots sans houses are selling for $50,000. Several such Ecuador real estate developments are attracting the interest of not only baby boomers but also an affluent younger set building larger homes in the 2,500 to 3,000 square foot range. A recent purchaser intends to persuade her artist friends to create an enclave in one of the developments near El Batan, a barrio of indigenous natives who still cultivate the land in the old ways, growing crops of corn, beans and potatoes. Also popular are the condominiums for sale that are being built by Jorge Quilumbaqui, an indigenous builder with a penchant for lush gardens. His first building sold out quickly, primarily to North Americans. Four more condo buildings are under construction with even more garden space and established trees. Click here to see photos and detail of this unique development.  See more examples of local real estate. With the wide-open spaces and gently rolling hills surrounding Cotacachi, there is ample room for home sites large and small. Cobblestone roads lead out of town in several directions. Indigenous barrios are tucked away here and there, filling the air with the laughter of children and the music of frequent fiestas. For those wishing to recapture a simpler and quieter lifestyle, Cotacachi is the place.  Rosalinda, a woman in the know about real estate around Cotacachi, reports that land prices have risen markedly in the last decade, yet they are still low compared to other Latin American countries. Raw land now brings an average of $1.50 per square meter, more if the infrastructure is in place. This translates to around $6,000 per acre. Ecuador real estate remains a bargain in many areas and Cotacachi is one such area where it is still possible to live like a Don on his hacienda. Cotacachi is the name of a canton (like counties in the U.S.). It is one of the largest canton’s in the country, and covers the urban area of the city itself, the mountain areas where many of the indigenous live, and the Intag, a remote semi-tropical region. Cotacachi’s Population Approximately 6,000 – 7,000. Current Buyers Baby boomers, investors, second home and vacation homebuyers, artists, green buyers. Location The town is a 1½ to 2-hour ride from Quito, about 65 kilometers north. The Pan-American Highway takes you within about 3 kilometers of Cotacachi, where a left turn at the Pan-Am stoplight will bring you to the town square. Attractions Known for its leather goods—coats, jackets, purses, shoes and specialty items—picturesque “Leather Street” is increasingly becoming more elegant as prosperous shopkeepers vie for the attentions of affluent clientele.  A short distance, overlooking the town, is the recently dedicated site of the Temple of the Sun, a UNESCO cultural heritage project slated to be completed by 2012. A model of the proposed buildings can be viewed on the first floor of the municipal building located on the town square. When completed, this educational center to teach ancient traditions and techniques will be one of the major attractions in South America. Participatory Democracy Program
Becoming a Model throughout Ecuador Twelve years ago, Cotacachi’s new mayor at the time, Auki Tituana, implemented a program called participatory democracy. This exciting new program has given an incredible boost to the people of this canton. Each year, more than 1,000 representatives of various community organizations meet to plan the following year’s goals. Once the goals are set, various committees are formed to insure that the goals are met. The resources of the canton government are then applied toward making these goals a reality. As of this year, 130 of Ecuador’s 215 cantons have implemented some elements of Cotacachi’s program. Click here to read more about the participatory democracy program. |
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